J/120 North Sailing Guide
Set-up & Measurements
The set-up measurements used onboard J/120 Fatal Attraction are listed below. The headstay length is taken from the centerline of the pin (A) passing through the upper mast tang to the centerline of the pin at the stemhead.
- Pin-to-pin without any backstay tension 16.11 m (52.85 ft.)
- Pin-to-pin with 4000 lbs. backstay tension 16.15 m (52.98 ft.) 16.09 m without top toggle

Masthead measurements are taken with the raised genoa halyard two-blocked at the sheave.
- Masthead to shackle on furling drum (B) 15.25 m (50.03 ft.)
- Masthead to pole end (extended ) 17.41 m (57.11 ft.)
- Masthead to stemhead pin 16.60 m (54.46 ft.)
This measurement was taken outside the pulpit in order to get an accurate measurement around the furling drum. - Masthead to front of headsail track 14.83 m (48.65 ft.)
- Masthead to back of headsail track 15.08 m (49.47 ft.)
- Masthead to front of #3 track 14.73 m (48.32 ft.)
- Masthead to back of #3 track 14.78 m (48.49 ft.)
- Masthead to chainplate pin centerline 15.80 m (51.83 ft.)
- Masthead to 2nd spreader 10.62 m (34.84 ft.)
- Masthead to 1st spreader 0.68 m (18.63 ft.)

While underway, double-check that the main halyard is hoisted to the black band (C). This is an often overlooked detail that will affect luff tension and sail shape, especially in a breeze. Be careful not to raise the jib halyard too high (D), of the headfoil will not rotate properly from tack to tack.

Position mast butt so that attachment bolts are located in middle of slots in mast base

Going Sailing
There are a couple of things to note when sailing upwind to max VMG.
- Here, the main halyard is approximately 6" below the black band. Halyards stretch, especially in moderate breeze, so the mast person and mainsheet trimmer should make sure that the head of the sail is at the black band when hoisted as well as at the end of each downwind leg. Adjustments made on downwind legs should be made before heading upwind.
- Crew placement should be "cheek-to-cheek" to keep the center of gravity as compressed as possible. Also, the crew (legally) can sit outside the top lifeline or leaning against the lower lifeline more aggressively. Max VMG is the result of "little details" that make big differences in speed and pointing.
- Time Bandit (right), shown here sailing in 14 -16 knots of true wind during Whidbey Island Race Week, is set-up for max VMG with perfect foreand-aft trim and minimal heel angle. Helmsman, main trimmer and genoa trimmer are in the cockpit while hiking crew are evenly distributed between the aft end of the coach roof and chainplates. What do we particularly like here? Concentration in the cockpit!
- The 3DL mainsail leech telltales are all flying with the top telltale showing a hint of overtrim. The genoa foot look like it is strapped in hard against the leeward chainplate. It is usually faster to have the genoa foot just kissing the chainplate. The top of the sail will then stay closer to the spreaders, helping to power the boat up and point higher.
- Optimally, the helmsman will sit on the windward side as far out as possible to see the waves and puffs as they approach the boat. Some helmspeople prefer sifting to leeward. In this position, however, the helmsman needs to be notified of approaching waves, puffs, or other boats, which can disturb concentration.

Upwind Sailing - Light/Moderate Air
Upwind in 8 knots true. Both sails are trimmed in hard. Note that some cunningham has been pulled on, even in this light breeze. By pulling the traveller up 8" and placing the boom on centerline, the boat will develop just the right amount of weather helm. The crew are already hiking correctly with bodies outside the upper lifeline and looking ahead for puffs and shifts. It’s important for everyone on the rail to be "heads up," always working for more speed or better position. Feedback is helpful to a helmsperson, but a lot of unnecessary chatter is distracting. One person should be communicating with the helm about changing sea and wind conditions.

Pay particular attention to the fore and aft trim of the boat. Most boats go "stern heavy" in very light air. Note here how crew has been placed well forward until the transom is just out of the water. This reduces wetted surface and drag. To keep the boat on its lines, both helmsman and trimmer are seated as far forward as possible in the cockpit, while the crew are close together behind the leeward chainplate and positioned outside the genoa foot so the sail is not disturbed. In light air, some crew might even go below, which lowers the boats center of gravity. All crew should stay quietly seated, allowing helm and trimmers to sail the boat to its target speed. Movements should be slow and minimal.

Mast Bend & Headstay Sag
Fatal Attraction is sailing in 9 knots true wind with 10 deg. heel - a little too much for maximum VMG. Take a look at the headstay "sag." Headstay sag is the deflection of the headstay to leeward of the yacht’s centerline relative to the spar. Headstay sag shortens the chord length between luff and leech and makes the sail fuller. Controling headstay sag is an important tool to widen the range of your All Purpose genoa. The easiest way to control headstay sag is with the hydraulic backstay.

Here is a an example of a 3DL mainsail perfectly matched to mast bend. The headstay length, mast butt position, backstay and runner tension all combine to create an even bend from masthead to deck and also matching the sail luff curve. Notice that the mainsail draft is perfectly located at the top, middle and bottom girths (stripes).

Same boat, same wind, same backstay tension as above ... but no runner load. The mast bend can double if the runner is eased off for a given backstay tension.

Mainsail Trim
Here is a North Spectra 295TX FullBatten Gatorback mainsail in 14 - 16 knots true wind with runner and backstay at full tension to flatten the sail. A key in wind speeds of 15+ knots is to sail the boat with less than 24 deg. heel and max backstay and runner. In addition to flattening the sails, this stabilizes the rig.


Max VMG.... GO FOR IT!
- Hike your buns off! Less heel angle means more keel immersion.
- Sail with minimum heel and minimum helm motion for less drag. Use the mainsheet to control heel before the tiller!
- Tighten the backstay & runners to bring the headstay closer to the vertical centerline plane while maintaining mainsail shape. The headsail can then be sheeted harder without compromising the slot.
- Increase sheet tension to the mainsail and headsail to bring leeches closer to the vertical plane.
- Adjust mainsail controls to keep the draft just ahead of 50%. Add sheet tension until the top telltale stalls more than 30% of the time, or until speed drops away from target.
- Sail for speed! Sail the boat at target speed to create maximum water flow around the keel, producing more lift.
This 12,600 dpi 30L mainsail is set-up for power and maximum painting in 10 knots true wind. If you compare the boom angle and top batten, you’ll see the top batten about 2-30 above boom parallel. This is an effective tool to maximize pointing once the boat is at full speed. If the speed drops off for any reason, ease the sheet a few inches and it will probably climb right back up.

Genoa Trim
This view of the bottom 30% of the sail shows the foot just kissing the chainplate. Note the halyard is tensioned so no wrinkles run aft from the headstay.

This 155% Class Max Genoa (12600 dpi Aramid) below is set-up is for "fast forward sailing" and is slightly depowered. The halyard is tensioned to remove all wrinkles from the luff and backstay is tension is 80% of maximum.

The same sail is shown in less breeze, with the sheet eased approximately 8" from the normal position. The sail shape is very similar to that shown above, with the draft location set a bit further forward.

This trimmers view shows the top 77% of the sail. Sheet tension is adjusted so the top spreader patch makes gentle contact with the upper spreader. The spreader patch is perfectly located to make contact with the rig at mid-patch. Unlike the light moderate set-ups in the above photos, this set-up is best for acceleration and rough water. All the telltales are flying, yet if the conditions permit, it may pay to sail with the top telltale on the weather side lifting up slightly.

Asymmetric Sail Inventory & Sail Trim Set Up
- Takedown line is tied to the tack and led back to the forward hatch.
- Lazy sheet is tied to the clew and led aft to the weather side over the pole end and over the takedown line. It is important to lead this line behind the asymmetric ~ tack and ahead of the headstay.
- Place a mark on the asymmetric tack line and on the tack line cleat to mark the position of the pole at full extension. A big time saver!
- Add a 1.5 meter Spectra pennant to the clew of the asymmetric to allow it to pass smoothly across the headstay.

Asymmetric Inventory
North has developed two asymmetric sails, the AP Reacher, and Max Runner. Together, they cover a wide wind range, with cloth matched to the wind speed.
The AP Reacher (right) is especially well suited for point-to-point racing, with the area at 120 m2 constructed in .85 poly. Fatal Attraction (2 below) is flying the reacher with the AWA (apparent wind angle) at 50° and good heel angle. The sheet is led through the aft spreacher block. To sail at the narrowest AWA, the crew should move aft, raising the bow and lowering the stern. The net effect is more stability and less chance of the rudder ventilating. The sheet is led through the aft spreacher block. To sail at the narrowest AWA, the crew should move aft, raising the bow and lowering the stern. The net effect is more stability and less chance of the rudder ventilating. spreacher block. To sail at the narrowest AWA, the crew should move aft, raising the bow and lowering the stern. The net effect is more stability and less chance of the rudder ventilating.

Purpose | App. Wind Angle | Cloth | Size |
---|---|---|---|
Reacher | 50-80° | .85 oz. Poly | 120 m2 |
Runner | 95-150° | .6 oz. Poly | 165 m2 |
Asymmetric Reacher & Runner - Size Matters.
The AP Runner is designed to the class maximum. The luff flys straight and vertical which makes adjusting the luff curl easy. As the wind builds, pay attention to sail control and keeping the boat sailing on its feet. To maintain optimum trim, ease the tack line a few feet to allow the luff to fly upward and forward. In moderate to heavy air, the decision on whether to hoist the reacher or the runner can be determined by the sea state, number of crew and their collective experience.

Fatal Attraction is sailing at a very close AWA with the reacher. The minimal luff sag translates to less back winding of the mainsail and less helm. The tack is pulled tight to the pole end and the head is hoisted to max hoist, all ingredients of a good, fast reacher.

Gybing the Asymmetric
Practicing your gybing in all wind speeds means you will have fast, well-timed gybes. Equally important is knowing when to gybe. As the boat accelerates, it pulls the apparent wind angle forward. This makes it tricky to estimate your compass course and angle on the opposite jibe. A good way to estimate the opposite heading is to check the direction the Windex points to leeward. This is especially useful when judging laylines in light air.

Prior to the jibe...
- The skipper gets everyone ready with "Prepare to gybe!" The crew should be in their positions.
- The bow person moves to what will be the new leeward side, getting ready to grab the new sheet and drag it aft aggressively.
- The trimmer has the sheet flaked in figure eights and blows off the loaded sheet while the sail is fully pressurized.
During the jibe...
- The helmsman turns the boat in a smooth radius, speeding the turn in the second part of the gybe to allow the clew to pass in front of the headstay so it can be pulled aft quickly just as the boom crosses the centerline.
- The bow person pulls the sheet hard, moving the clew aft to pop the sail full on the new gybe.
- The trimmer tails the sheet quickly, easing right after the sail fills on the new gybe. The trimmer and helm must work together to maintain speed through the gybe.
Practicing good boat handling and developing excellent crew work takes time. It is the culmination of a lot of little things done well that translate into a polished performance. On the next page are helpful tips for better off-wind speed.
Asymmetric Trim Tips
Keep a running chatter going between the helm and trimmer to select the best AWA for pressure and speed. The sheet and tiller adjustments should be automatic and 90% of the concentration between helm and trim should focus on the "speed groove" which keeps the pressure in the sail while maintaining optimum speed without increasing heel angle. The sheet grinder is an integral part of "the speed groove". A good exchange might sound like this: Trimmer: "Speed is down 2/10ths, lets head up 3 deg. - be ready for a couple feet of trim....Here it comes". Grinder: Starts trimming gently and ends gently to avoid disturbing the sail. As the wind builds, the verbal exchange gets louder, and the grinding must start earlier and more aggressively to keep the boat sailing fast, in the groove.

Practice, Practice, Practice!
- The more times you gybe in every windspeed possible, the faster your gybes will be. Your crew will gain confidence, especially in tight situations when a gybe can make the difference in mark rounding position. The helmsman will be able to sail offwind more aggressively knowing that the crew work is perfect.
- Hoist the sail to the max, presenting the largest amount of sail area to mother nature.
- Initiate a gybe only when the sail is flying at its best.
- Learn to tail the new sheet so fast the winch starts to smoke!
- Ease off the tack line as conditions permit. The luff tension will help control the angle of attack on the forward 1/4 of the asymmetric.
- Install telltales 2’ back from the luff at 3 locations up the luff. This will sharpen up your shape analysis.
- Sail with minimum heel to allow as much of the sail as possible to rotate to weather.
- "Keep the heat on the boiler". Use the sheet as an indicator of how low you can sail for the optimum VMG. If the sheet starts to droop, head up a few degrees until it is just pressurized. Watch the speed build and the AWA move forward. To maintain "heat", simply bear away until the speed begins to trend down, then head up a degree to keep it at full speed. until the speed begins to trend down, then head up a degree to keep it at full speed.
Sail Care & Storage
- Keep sails out of sun when not in use by using sail bags and mainsail cover If you are a cruiser using a roller furling genoa, a leech cover is recommended for the genoa.
- Look out for exposed cotter pins in the rigging or other sharp edges to tear the sail. Tape up where necessary.
- When leaving the boat, ease the halyard on a roller furling headsail to prevent permanent luff stretching. Similarly, ease the main outhaul if the foot is not a loose foot or shelf design.
- Avoid letting sails flog. This damages the cloth and reduces sail performance. Adjust the genoa fairlead and the leech cord to stop leech flutter. Do not motor directly upwind with the sails flogging.
- Dry sails before stowing them to avoid mildew. Nylon spinnakers can bleed color between panels if stored wet.
- Storage on board should be in a dry, ventilated space away from hot items such as the engine, heater or cabin lights. Laminated sails can be ruined by soaking in petroleum products such as diesel or gasoline. If they become exposed, clean gently with detergent and water, allow to dry and keep your fingers crossed that you caught it before the adhesive was weakened.
- Excess heat can distort or weaken sails. Do not keep them in a closed car trunk or other closed container which can build up heat in the sun.
Cleaning
- Cleaning sails annually to remove dirt and salt before winter storage. Take sails to your sailmaker for washing or wash them yourself using a mild laundry detergent and a brush. Do not use excessive agitation. Dry before folding for storage.
- Oil stains can be treated with a number of industrial solvents and even some household spray cleaners. For laminated sails, however, do not use any cleaner more powerful than a household detergents as they can break down the adhesive in the laminate.
- In very damp climates, spraying Lysol into the sail bag before closing will help reduce the chance of mildew.
- Mildew should be killed as soon as it appears to stop it from spreading. Small areas can be sprayed with Lysol spray. Larger areas can be washed with a 25% solution of Clorox Bleach and water (NOTE: Kevlar or Nylon sails should NEVER be exposed to Clorox!!!). Soak for 15 minutes and then rinse thoroughly with a hose. Stains will fade slowly with sunlight exposure once the mildew is dead. Storing sails dry in a well ventilated area reduces the chance for mildew. Wet roller furling sails should be rolled up loosely to allow them to dry.
Maintenance
- Small tears in lightly loaded areas (not near the leech) can be temporarily patched with sail repair tape or even duct tape to stop the tear from enlarging.
- A few broken stitches probably won’t cause a failure unless they are near the leech. If they are there, have the sail re-stitched before the seam lets go completely and makes the repair more difficult.
- Take your sails in for an annual inspection and maintenance. If this is not practical, spread them out and look for wear, broken stitches and rips.
Storage
- Store sails for the off season in a warm dry space away from hot items like furnaces, hot water pipes and electric heaters.
- Sails should be folded rather than stuffed to avoid unnecessary creasing which breaks down the material. Look out for exposed cotter pins in the rigging or other sharp edges to tear the sail. Tape up where necessary.

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